W03 - from Memramcook to Fredericton: golden October

In our second week on the bicycles we had overcome the growing pains. By now riding the fully loaded bikes felt normal for us and we were able to enjoy the calm section. On our way west from Memramcook through Moncton to Fredericton the weather was gods felt sympathetic towards us and we enjoyed warm temperatures and many hours of sunshine in t-shirt and shorts. Golden October, brilliantly colorful forests, blue sky and lonely roads - what more can one wish for?


On October 4th, 2018 - after our wonderful days in Memramcook - our way lead us to the second biggest town in New Brunswick: Moncton. As we were only 30 km away, we decided to spend our afternoon in Moncton and then in the evening camp on a campground a little outside of town in order to be able to start early the next morning on to our longest section so far. When being on the road with our fully loaded bikes there is no way to lock everything safely or carry the bags with us, so one of us has to stay with the bikes. So while Kira was shopping for groceries for the next days (there weren’t going to be any supermarket along the planned route) I had time to admire the bordering arm of the Bay of Fundy which stands out with a exceptional tidal lift (up to 21m). Even without experiencing the actual high tide and with it the tidal bore one can get a good impression of the powerful energies working here by looking at the massive walls of mud.

On the next day (October 5th, 2018) we then started on to our trip to RiverRun (Campground). On our way there we were not only accompanied by the theme music of Game of Thrones but also by stunning weather and beautiful, nearly car free road. The blue sky and the sun light up the forest and its many unbelievably colorful trees so much that in some areas it seemed to burn. The red, orange and yellow of the maple trees and birches really are unique and can hardly be captured with a camera. Together with the fresh autumn air this produced the nicest day of our journey so far and the 82 km passed quickly. When arriving at the RiverRun Campground the owner gave us a heart-warming welcome and a free upgrade into the Rustic Cabin - Class which not only allowed us to sleep comfortably but also - because not having to put up the tent saved us time - to enjoy the evening sun at the Canaan River.

October 6th, 2018 lead us along the Grand Lake through Whites Cove and Jemseg to Coytown and Coy Lake Campground. This is a nice and relatively quiet section until you have to cross the Saint John River. With a bicycle you actually have to take a 80 km detour to get to the (for us) right side of the river. The only realistic possibility therefore was to take the Trans-Canada-Highway - which is normally allowed in New Brunswick. As in this case the bridge is closed for bicycles we had to (the official story) swim. From the bridge you probably would have had a nice view onto the, at this point, very wide river. In my imagination we surely must have looked from above as tiny and lost as the little boat that drifted next to us on the river.

Luckily on the next day (October 7th, 2018) we had the opportunity to compare our imagination with reality two times. However at our second crossing the highlight was the bridge itself. Today the old railway bridge of Fredericton is only being used as a pedestrian and bicycle path and is most of all because of its age (built 1889) quite photogenic. In Fredericton a cosy AirBnB awaited us ich which we stayed three nights to recover and discover the town on the Thanksgiving weekend. Instead of the traditional Turkey-Feast we „only“ head homemade Pancakes as well as Burger and French Fries - but plenty of this.

Author: Pascal

Translation: Kira

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